South Indian restaurant Rice Boat opened on Newnham Road in 2005 and has become a Cambridge institution. Owned by lovely couple Jacob (head chef) and Rita (front of house manager) Abraham, they serve traditional Kerala cuisine. This place has been on my must-try list for far too many years and I’m sorry it took me so long to visit. I’ll definitely be making repeat visits from now on.

When Paulo and I arrived for our 6pm (opening time) reservation, we could already take in the fragrant aromas emanating from the kitchen. We were warmly welcomed and service was attentive. The co-owner Rita came to thank us for our custom at the end of the meal and have a little chat – so nice!

I’ve only ever tried Kerala cuisine once before – several years ago in Leeds. Rice Boat’s menu describes the flavours, consistencies (dry vs saucy) and spice levels of the dishes, which really helped us decide. They cook everything from scratch. The staple foods of Kerala include aromatic spices such as black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom and nutmeg, as well as coconut and rice, which we enjoyed in the dishes we ordered.

Our starters included Vada (lentil dough balls) served with coconut chutney and sambar – both with a good amount of spice. Paulo loved the sambar so much he didn’t want to waste any leftovers, so he literally drank the rest of this delicious vegetable & lentil stew straight from the serving bowl!

We also shared the Onion Vada, described as Kerala’s version of the onion bhaji. The onions were prepared in moreish little strips, perfect for nibbling and dipping into the accompanying spicy ketchup.

The main courses feature a tantalising list of prawn, chicken, lamb, beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. I chose the medium-spiced Kerala Chicken Curry with aromatic cardamom, cloves and cinnamon in a rich, thick gravy with coriander and chilli powders. Spice levels are subjective, so some may find medium too spicy or not spicy enough. I thought it was spot on with a good kick.

Paulo ordered the Fried Chicken Masala, with boneless chicken that’s been fried first, then cooked in a tomato and onion masala gravy. This dish was also medium-spiced with full depth of flavour.

To mop us these succulent sauces, I had a Porotta – a thick, flaky wheat bread that helped absorb the spicy heat of the curry.

We also shared the Chapatti, an unleavened flatbread made with wheat flour and cooked with no oil. This one is perfect for sharing as in comes in pairs. It’s worth noting that there are nine breads on the menu (most are gluten-free), which includes five Dosa dishes.

Note to self: if a restaurant has “rice” in its name, order more rice dishes to try as many flavours as possible! There are four of these on the menu: Boiled Rice (par-boiled Kerala red rice), Neyychor (Basmati rice cooked with aromatic spices and vegetable ghee), Lemon Rice (tangy Basmati rice with ginger, lemon juice and zest) and Coconut Rice (a delicate rice with grated coconut, mustard seeds and lentils). These dishes are available as a half-portion. We ordered one rice dish to share but the Neyychor was so tasty we could have eaten a whole portion each.

Rice Boat’s desserts hit the spot. Their Kerala Banana Fritters – a house favourite – consisted of well-ripened, battered and fried plantain served with a scoop of their homemade vanilla ice cream.

Paulo enjoyed the kulfi, a traditional frozen dairy dessert often called Indian ice cream. Their refreshing Pistachio Kulfi was made in-house and topped with a fruit coulis.

At the end of our dinner, the bill came with a jar of Mukhwas – candied fennel seeds that aid digestion and freshen the breath. I poured a little into the palm of my hand and chewed a few seeds. A nice touch and it really does work!

Top Tips:

• Parking is easier than you might think, with free parking after 5pm or 6pm on the side streets (we parked on nearby Sidgwick Avenue). There’s more parking and bus info on their website.

• Their website doesn’t have a reservations system, so it’s best to ring them (which we did) or send an email (see their Contact Us page). They’re not open for lunch.

• Rice Boat also offer outside catering and group dining. I spotted a lovely function room at the back.

We’re looking forward to many return visits and trying more of their fantastic menu, especially their signature Kerala Red Fish Curry.

Dinner at Rice Boat is based on my experience at my own cost and I did not receive compensation for my review.

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